By 7:30 am we are enroute to Rouen --- at 10:30 am -- a presentation on France and its people by Eliana, our Cruise Manager.
On arrival in Rouen -- it is a walking tour with Marie Helen where our first stop is the cathedral of Notre Dame built in 1120 -- ceilings are 97 feet high. Although we have seen more churches than I can remember in Europe -- this one is impressive. Claude Monet felt the same way as he immortalized this cathedral in his paintings.
We continue through the city passing a yellow timber house dating to 1466 and the 16th century Clock Tower which still tells accurate time -- at least on one side.
I was stunned as we entered Place du Vieux Marche' (Old Market Square) where Ste. Jeanne-D'Arc was burned at the stake. The church built in her honor in 1979 is extremely contemporary --the shape looks like a dragon. Marie Helen explained that even though this church is a modern design, the stained glass windows date to circa 1530. Originally the windows were in St. Vincent's Church in Rouen which was destroyed in the World War II bombings. In the early 1940's people in Rouen had the forethought to remove the stained glass windows from their churches before the bombings began. Since St. Vincent's was completely destroyed there was no place to return these beautiful windows so - as the church was being built for their beloved St. Joan someone remembered the windows proposing a new home. Each of these windows tells a story since many people in the 16th century could not read. Some things just work out for the best --- this is one of them.
A stop at the Euro Cafe for some people watching before going back to the ship is our last stop in Rouen.
The evening entertainment was very enjoyable pianist who specialized in show tunes -- it was a lot of fun -- the perfect ending to a good day on the Seine.
Thanks for Reading.
Euro Cafe in Rouen France
The Traveling Foursome---
Thursday, April 25, 2013
Wednesday, April 24, 2013
Day Ten - Vernon - Giverny
We arrive in Vernon at 10:30 am -- walk through what can only be described as a lovely French town. There is a market with sumptuous edibles from scallops in their shells to decadent pastries. Back to the ship for lunch before we tour the village of Giverny and Claude Monet's home from 1883-1926 (half of his life -- he was born in 1840).
Our guide is Elizabeth -- she is terrific giving us lots of history of the area and Claude Monet. Monet lived here with his second wife, Ailis, her six children and his two. They had a lively group in this house he purchased when he saw it from the train. He loved it here so much that he added to the property building the Lilly Pond - which has an Asian flair. His gardens are plentiful with flowers that bloom most of the year and finally this fabulous home. Unfortunately photos in the house were not allowed so I had to depend on postcards.
There is the small village of Giverny and an Impressionist Museum to be visited before going back to the ship for dinner.
Our first day on the Seine is a success.
Thanks for Reading!
Our guide is Elizabeth -- she is terrific giving us lots of history of the area and Claude Monet. Monet lived here with his second wife, Ailis, her six children and his two. They had a lively group in this house he purchased when he saw it from the train. He loved it here so much that he added to the property building the Lilly Pond - which has an Asian flair. His gardens are plentiful with flowers that bloom most of the year and finally this fabulous home. Unfortunately photos in the house were not allowed so I had to depend on postcards.
There is the small village of Giverny and an Impressionist Museum to be visited before going back to the ship for dinner.
Our first day on the Seine is a success.
Thanks for Reading!
Day Nine -- Lyon - Paris
Today is transition day from the AmaDagio in Lyon to the AmaLegro in Paris. There are about 20 of us making the switch. We are dropped off in Lyon to walk around for a couple of hours before having a cooking class -- then boarding the TGV (fast) train for a two hour ride to Paris -- then a short bus ride to the AmaLegro docked on the Seine. We were not pleased with the transition -- and will use our words when we fill out the evaluation forms at the end of next week.
Disembarkation from the AmaDagio is 9:00 am after verifying our luggage is all in place for loading onto the bus. We are dropped off with a guide in Bellecoure Square in Lyon to visit the farmer's market or just walk around until 11:30 when we are scheduled to have a cooking class. The only issue is that it is raining and we were not told that we would be "left" to our own devices for two hours so several people didn't have jackets or raingear. Patte and I are prepared with our hooded LL Bean jackets -- Dave and Phil less so.
After a walk through the market where the vegetables and fruits are abundant and beautiful -- Phil takes off on his own -- Patte, Dave and I stop at "Pomme de Pain" for a coffee and pastry then Patte and I take a browse through the shops. We bump into Phil -- who is undaunted by the drizzle -- we watch a movie being made in the middle of the square and soon enough it is 11:30. "In Cuisine" -- the shop where our cooking class is scheduled -- is just on the perimeter of Bellecoure Square -- we are happy to get inside where it is dry and warm.
Cooking classes were held in two groups with a separate chef for each of three courses: Beef Bourgononne -- Salmon Roll-ups -- Brioche with Pears. It was a lot of fun -- each of the three chefs had their own style -- everyone had a job -- the dishes were simple and delicious -- recipes were provided ---- we could not ask for anything better.
Now it is off to the train station for the TGV to Paris. Rachel has about 94 people to get on the train -- a group going to Paris for the weekend and our group changing ships. All the groups meet at the train station and are able to get on the train early -- we've been given the train car number and our seat numbers so we board without issue.
Our group sit the same area of the train -- all seems fine until people get on the train with tickets to seats that some of our group have taken. We have no tickets -- just the information given to us by Rachel. Luckily -- Patte, Dave, Phil and I are not approached but at least half of our group had to find other seats. Apparently Rachel was sitting in another car with the folks going to Paris with her. She never came to find us to see that all was well. By the time the train left everyone had found a seat and we were off.
Arrival in Paris at Lyon du Gare is about 4:00pm. We see Rachel in the station and are met at our train by Michel holding a sign: AMALEGRO. Michel is not sensitive to the needs of some in our group who move a little slower -- he leads the way to the buses much too quickly and by now we are all watching out for each other. This is the first black mark against Michel. Next comes the loading of the luggage. Luggage for 94 people is on the platform next to the three buses -- our group's luggage has green tickets. Phil and I have three pieces -- two large and one carry-on all with four wheels. I can only see the two large pieces. As I wander through the maize of bags looking for my other piece -- Michel instructs me in a most unpleasant tone to get on the bus -- everything will be loaded.
Well -- everything was not loaded. Upon arrival at the AmaLegro -- two bags are missing: my bag and one other. After disbelief on Michel's part -- and an insulting attitude that I must be mistaken --phone calls were made and the bags were found at the Paris hotel of the other group. The bags arrived by taxi before we departed Paris at 10:00 pm.
Our rooms are the same -- but a little more efficient use of the small space. We have a nice dinner sitting in the same table position as we did on the AmaDagio -- such creatures of habit are we?
A long day but we are on board -- well fed -- and ready to get a good night's sleep.
Thanks for Reading!
Disembarkation from the AmaDagio is 9:00 am after verifying our luggage is all in place for loading onto the bus. We are dropped off with a guide in Bellecoure Square in Lyon to visit the farmer's market or just walk around until 11:30 when we are scheduled to have a cooking class. The only issue is that it is raining and we were not told that we would be "left" to our own devices for two hours so several people didn't have jackets or raingear. Patte and I are prepared with our hooded LL Bean jackets -- Dave and Phil less so.
After a walk through the market where the vegetables and fruits are abundant and beautiful -- Phil takes off on his own -- Patte, Dave and I stop at "Pomme de Pain" for a coffee and pastry then Patte and I take a browse through the shops. We bump into Phil -- who is undaunted by the drizzle -- we watch a movie being made in the middle of the square and soon enough it is 11:30. "In Cuisine" -- the shop where our cooking class is scheduled -- is just on the perimeter of Bellecoure Square -- we are happy to get inside where it is dry and warm.
Cooking classes were held in two groups with a separate chef for each of three courses: Beef Bourgononne -- Salmon Roll-ups -- Brioche with Pears. It was a lot of fun -- each of the three chefs had their own style -- everyone had a job -- the dishes were simple and delicious -- recipes were provided ---- we could not ask for anything better.
Now it is off to the train station for the TGV to Paris. Rachel has about 94 people to get on the train -- a group going to Paris for the weekend and our group changing ships. All the groups meet at the train station and are able to get on the train early -- we've been given the train car number and our seat numbers so we board without issue.
Our group sit the same area of the train -- all seems fine until people get on the train with tickets to seats that some of our group have taken. We have no tickets -- just the information given to us by Rachel. Luckily -- Patte, Dave, Phil and I are not approached but at least half of our group had to find other seats. Apparently Rachel was sitting in another car with the folks going to Paris with her. She never came to find us to see that all was well. By the time the train left everyone had found a seat and we were off.
Arrival in Paris at Lyon du Gare is about 4:00pm. We see Rachel in the station and are met at our train by Michel holding a sign: AMALEGRO. Michel is not sensitive to the needs of some in our group who move a little slower -- he leads the way to the buses much too quickly and by now we are all watching out for each other. This is the first black mark against Michel. Next comes the loading of the luggage. Luggage for 94 people is on the platform next to the three buses -- our group's luggage has green tickets. Phil and I have three pieces -- two large and one carry-on all with four wheels. I can only see the two large pieces. As I wander through the maize of bags looking for my other piece -- Michel instructs me in a most unpleasant tone to get on the bus -- everything will be loaded.
Well -- everything was not loaded. Upon arrival at the AmaLegro -- two bags are missing: my bag and one other. After disbelief on Michel's part -- and an insulting attitude that I must be mistaken --phone calls were made and the bags were found at the Paris hotel of the other group. The bags arrived by taxi before we departed Paris at 10:00 pm.
Our rooms are the same -- but a little more efficient use of the small space. We have a nice dinner sitting in the same table position as we did on the AmaDagio -- such creatures of habit are we?
A long day but we are on board -- well fed -- and ready to get a good night's sleep.
Thanks for Reading!
Tuesday, April 23, 2013
Day Eight - Lyon and Oingt Village France
This morning we each wandered around Lyon on our own since we had different agendas -- I poked around in the shops -- and wandered the streets of the old town. Patte and Dave went to see more churches and monuments and Phil just walked long distances.
After lunch on lunch on board -- we meet our guide, Solene, who takes us to tour a vineyard in the Beaujolais wine growing region but first a stop at Oingt a village just northwest of Lyon.
Oingt is a 14th Century village where real people still live -- it feels very much like a movie set with spectacular views of the surrounding countryside. At the highest point in the village is the Chappelle to St. Joseph-- I just had to take a photo of this statue of a priest but I don't know who he is -- no label.
Leaving Oingt -- we're off to meet Pascal, the wine producer at Domaine de la Logere vineyard -- this guy is a real character. He portrays himself as not speaking much English so Solene will translate. While we are "among the grapes" in the field -- someone asks him a question --- he responds with perfect English. Pascal is dramatically French and most passionate about what he does. After an explanation of how he grows his vines we are ushered into a room for tasting three of his wines -- un blanc and deux rouge. During the tasting Pascal demonstrates old winemaking tools from his collection -- some tools are 100 years old.
Dave and Phil decide we need wine while we are in Paris for two days so they purchase a package of the three wines for 22 euros --- amounting to $28.60 or about $9 a bottle. By the time we leave Pascal is babbling away quite proficiently in English.
We've had yet another interesting and fun day on the Rhone River.
Thanks for reading!
After lunch on lunch on board -- we meet our guide, Solene, who takes us to tour a vineyard in the Beaujolais wine growing region but first a stop at Oingt a village just northwest of Lyon.
Oingt is a 14th Century village where real people still live -- it feels very much like a movie set with spectacular views of the surrounding countryside. At the highest point in the village is the Chappelle to St. Joseph-- I just had to take a photo of this statue of a priest but I don't know who he is -- no label.
Leaving Oingt -- we're off to meet Pascal, the wine producer at Domaine de la Logere vineyard -- this guy is a real character. He portrays himself as not speaking much English so Solene will translate. While we are "among the grapes" in the field -- someone asks him a question --- he responds with perfect English. Pascal is dramatically French and most passionate about what he does. After an explanation of how he grows his vines we are ushered into a room for tasting three of his wines -- un blanc and deux rouge. During the tasting Pascal demonstrates old winemaking tools from his collection -- some tools are 100 years old.
Dave and Phil decide we need wine while we are in Paris for two days so they purchase a package of the three wines for 22 euros --- amounting to $28.60 or about $9 a bottle. By the time we leave Pascal is babbling away quite proficiently in English.
We've had yet another interesting and fun day on the Rhone River.
Thanks for reading!
Day Seven - Vienne and Lynon
Our guide, Mary Clair, meets us at the ship for a walking tour of Vienne -- a city with Celtic and Roman roots --- population is 30,000. Originally settled by the Celts because of the good farming soil and position on the Rhone River, the Romans came along in 48 B.C. and got things organized building an infrastructure of roads as well as workshops and warehouses along the river. A piece of an original Roman road still exists in a lovely riverside park.
Our first stop after a stroll through center city is the Musee' Lapidaire - Eglise Saint-Pierre. Here we find several Roman artifacts and mosaics displayed as if in the middle of an archealogical dig. Several ancient floors with mosiacs have been uncovered -- a sign of a wealthy city in Roman times.
After leaving the museum -- we couldn't find Phil so Dave and I lagged behind to wait for him -- thinking maybe he was in the men's room. As we watch -- we see the museum curator exiting and locking up the museum then getting in his car and driving off. Just as we begin to panic thinking Phil is locked inside with all the ancient heads and statues -- he rounds the corner to catch up with us. He'd gone back to the ship to get his camera.
Our walk takes us to a Roman Temple -- in tact. This temple was erected to Augustin and his wife Lelia who were considered divine persons -- it was saved from destruction later on because it had been turned into a church. The restoration as a Roman Temple took place after the French Revolution. Nearby we notice a plaque to Thomas Jefferson -- erected in 2009 during the 220th anniversary of the French Revolution -- commemorating Jefferson's friendship and support of the French people.
Next a small "train" takes us up the winding streets to a point overlooking the city and a cathedral that can be seen from all over. It is called Notre Dame --- dedicated to Our Lady of LaSalette and her apparition to two children. As one looks out over the city -- a theatre from the 1st Century B.C. is visible -- it is still in use today for concerts and plays. Seating today is 8,000 -- in Roman times it was 11,000.
Back on the ship for lunch and departure to Lyon -- the second largest city in France at the confluence of the Rhone and Soane Rivers --- settled by the Romans in 53 B.C and at one time capital of Gallic Gaul. We arrive at 2:40 pm --- immediately disembark for a city tour with Marion (who tells us she does not like the American pronunciation of her name so we are to call her "Marionne").
Our first stop is the Basilica of Fourviere dedicated to the Virgin Mary-- 1st stone was laid in 1872 -- finished twelve years later. As we are on the bus leaving the area we have a bit of a traffic issue -- a bus in front of us decides he wants to back into a space where he cannot fit -- there are flailing arms -- lots of angry words are exchanged -- traffic is at a standstill. Finally one bus is able to squeeze through a small space which frees up the jam of cars. I notice out of the corner of my eye -- someone in a car trying to fit into a space that is too small and ramming the cars in front and back -- as we were leaving she was still trying.
"Marionne" takes us into the "Old City" for a tour of the secret passages of Lyon known as "Traboules"-- built in the 4th Century by silk manufacturers to expedite delivery of their goods to the river. One must know where the traboules exist to take advantage of them -- several are public if you know how to find them.
We are back on the ship by 6:00 pm but since Lyon is the "Gastronomic Capital" of France, we decide dinner out is in order. LaTassee -- within walking distance from the ship and recommended by one of our guides gets the nod. All of our dinners were just right -- best described as an upscale neighborhood place this was a good choice. A pleasant observation of mine was that even though directly next to us was a group of perhaps 16 to 18 people, we were not disturbed in the least -- they were quiet and subdued -- so civilized.
A fitting end to this long but good day is our walk back to the ship on a pleasant evening in Rouen.
Thanks for Reading!
Our first stop after a stroll through center city is the Musee' Lapidaire - Eglise Saint-Pierre. Here we find several Roman artifacts and mosaics displayed as if in the middle of an archealogical dig. Several ancient floors with mosiacs have been uncovered -- a sign of a wealthy city in Roman times.
After leaving the museum -- we couldn't find Phil so Dave and I lagged behind to wait for him -- thinking maybe he was in the men's room. As we watch -- we see the museum curator exiting and locking up the museum then getting in his car and driving off. Just as we begin to panic thinking Phil is locked inside with all the ancient heads and statues -- he rounds the corner to catch up with us. He'd gone back to the ship to get his camera.
Our walk takes us to a Roman Temple -- in tact. This temple was erected to Augustin and his wife Lelia who were considered divine persons -- it was saved from destruction later on because it had been turned into a church. The restoration as a Roman Temple took place after the French Revolution. Nearby we notice a plaque to Thomas Jefferson -- erected in 2009 during the 220th anniversary of the French Revolution -- commemorating Jefferson's friendship and support of the French people.
Next a small "train" takes us up the winding streets to a point overlooking the city and a cathedral that can be seen from all over. It is called Notre Dame --- dedicated to Our Lady of LaSalette and her apparition to two children. As one looks out over the city -- a theatre from the 1st Century B.C. is visible -- it is still in use today for concerts and plays. Seating today is 8,000 -- in Roman times it was 11,000.
Back on the ship for lunch and departure to Lyon -- the second largest city in France at the confluence of the Rhone and Soane Rivers --- settled by the Romans in 53 B.C and at one time capital of Gallic Gaul. We arrive at 2:40 pm --- immediately disembark for a city tour with Marion (who tells us she does not like the American pronunciation of her name so we are to call her "Marionne").
Our first stop is the Basilica of Fourviere dedicated to the Virgin Mary-- 1st stone was laid in 1872 -- finished twelve years later. As we are on the bus leaving the area we have a bit of a traffic issue -- a bus in front of us decides he wants to back into a space where he cannot fit -- there are flailing arms -- lots of angry words are exchanged -- traffic is at a standstill. Finally one bus is able to squeeze through a small space which frees up the jam of cars. I notice out of the corner of my eye -- someone in a car trying to fit into a space that is too small and ramming the cars in front and back -- as we were leaving she was still trying.
"Marionne" takes us into the "Old City" for a tour of the secret passages of Lyon known as "Traboules"-- built in the 4th Century by silk manufacturers to expedite delivery of their goods to the river. One must know where the traboules exist to take advantage of them -- several are public if you know how to find them.
We are back on the ship by 6:00 pm but since Lyon is the "Gastronomic Capital" of France, we decide dinner out is in order. LaTassee -- within walking distance from the ship and recommended by one of our guides gets the nod. All of our dinners were just right -- best described as an upscale neighborhood place this was a good choice. A pleasant observation of mine was that even though directly next to us was a group of perhaps 16 to 18 people, we were not disturbed in the least -- they were quiet and subdued -- so civilized.
A fitting end to this long but good day is our walk back to the ship on a pleasant evening in Rouen.
Thanks for Reading!
Sunday, April 21, 2013
Day Six - Tournon and Vienne France
After breakfast -- we're off on a Cotes du Rhone wine tour -- to the villages of Cornas and St. Peray. Our Guide is Celine, originally from Paris and our wine expert is Martin, originally from Brussels. Martin has a just purchased a small plot of land and is in the process starting his own wine business -- apparently a difficult task in France because of all the rules about how the grapes must be grown and harvested.
In the village of Cornas, Martin tours us around the vines which are just beginning to bud explaining that in the Cotes du Rhone region regulation dictates that everything be done by hand from planting to weeding to harvesting the grapes. I must admit I had no idea how complicated wine growing is so with new respect for this profession we are off to see how the wine tastes.
The bus shuttles us to the village of St. Peray (population 6,000) to a shop where we taste five wines -- one Rose' from 2012, three rouge from 2011 and one rouge from 2012. Martin knows his grapes and is so adorable that all the ladies are hanging on his every word. Prices for the wines we tasted range from 7 euros to 30 euros -- the most expensive is from grapes grown on 60 year old vines. I liked the 7 euro and the 30 euro the best -- I'm not sure what that means. The afternoon is spent cruising the Rhone --
At dinner -- along with two other couples -- the four of us have been invited to dine at the Captain's Table. Joining us are Lee and Linda from Scottsdale, Bob and Linda from Vancouver, Rachel our Cruise Director as well as Captain Danny. Captain Danny is 27 years old, a bit shy, newly married to Daniele who works the front desk and a wonderful captain -- very visible. Rachel, originally from Brazil, reminds Dave of "Charo" for all of you of a certain age who remember her. Our dinner is lively and lots of fun.
After dinner Phil, Patte, Dave and I take a walk around Viennes -- a town with Roman monuments scattered liberally throughout the city.
Another good day cruising the Rhone.
Thanks for Reading!
In the village of Cornas, Martin tours us around the vines which are just beginning to bud explaining that in the Cotes du Rhone region regulation dictates that everything be done by hand from planting to weeding to harvesting the grapes. I must admit I had no idea how complicated wine growing is so with new respect for this profession we are off to see how the wine tastes.
The bus shuttles us to the village of St. Peray (population 6,000) to a shop where we taste five wines -- one Rose' from 2012, three rouge from 2011 and one rouge from 2012. Martin knows his grapes and is so adorable that all the ladies are hanging on his every word. Prices for the wines we tasted range from 7 euros to 30 euros -- the most expensive is from grapes grown on 60 year old vines. I liked the 7 euro and the 30 euro the best -- I'm not sure what that means. The afternoon is spent cruising the Rhone --
At dinner -- along with two other couples -- the four of us have been invited to dine at the Captain's Table. Joining us are Lee and Linda from Scottsdale, Bob and Linda from Vancouver, Rachel our Cruise Director as well as Captain Danny. Captain Danny is 27 years old, a bit shy, newly married to Daniele who works the front desk and a wonderful captain -- very visible. Rachel, originally from Brazil, reminds Dave of "Charo" for all of you of a certain age who remember her. Our dinner is lively and lots of fun.
After dinner Phil, Patte, Dave and I take a walk around Viennes -- a town with Roman monuments scattered liberally throughout the city.
Another good day cruising the Rhone.
Thanks for Reading!
Saturday, April 20, 2013
Day Five - Grignan and Tournon France
Our guide today is Usha and our driver is Laurent -- as we drive from Vivier to meet the ship to continue down the Rhone to Tournon. Along the way we travel through several villages on our way to Grignan a small town with a population of about 1550 and a castle that dates back to around 1250. During the 17th Century the Count of Grignan (twice widowed) married Francoise-Marguerite de Sevigne who corresponded with her mother Madam de Sevigne who lived in Paris. Because of these letters much is known about this Count such as -- he liked to spend money and in 1680 he built a terrace for use by castle inhabitants on top of the Church roof. Townspeople were horrified saying "people are walking on God's head".
After a walk through this lovely Medieval town and a visit to a shop or two -- we're off to La Rabassiere, a 75 acre Truffle Farm. We meet Walter, a third generation owner who explains the complicated process of producing truffles -- as Usha translates. They are quite the team -- Walter is appropriately dramatic as Usha provides us with the information we need to understand the process. Apparently the odor of the truffle is what makes it special -- there are black truffles produced in winter and white truffles produced in summer. Dogs are trained to dig up the truffles -- we meet Aimee one of three dogs that Walter uses in his operation. A tour of the field and a demonstration by Aimee of how she (female dogs work better) finds the truffle, digs it up -- and how Walter must be sure that Aimee does not eat the truffle by giving her a treat for each truffle she finds.
Walter and his wife have a lovely repast set out for us near the small shop area -- red and white wine as well as olive tapenade, truffle pate, truffle butter and truffle oil with wonderful breads. -- all samples of what is sold in the shop. Phil, of course, purchases some wine and spreads -- as if we don't have enough food and drink on the ship.
Back on board -- I sleep for a good part of the afternoon. After dinner we take a walk into Tournon -- a lovely town. Phil and I walk across a pedestrian bridge built in 1825 -- to Tain-l'Hermitage another small town. Up in the hills we can see a statue of the Blessed Mother on one side of the river and a small church on the other side of the river --- all lit up.
We've had a good and busy day cruising the Rhone River.
Thanks for Reading.
After a walk through this lovely Medieval town and a visit to a shop or two -- we're off to La Rabassiere, a 75 acre Truffle Farm. We meet Walter, a third generation owner who explains the complicated process of producing truffles -- as Usha translates. They are quite the team -- Walter is appropriately dramatic as Usha provides us with the information we need to understand the process. Apparently the odor of the truffle is what makes it special -- there are black truffles produced in winter and white truffles produced in summer. Dogs are trained to dig up the truffles -- we meet Aimee one of three dogs that Walter uses in his operation. A tour of the field and a demonstration by Aimee of how she (female dogs work better) finds the truffle, digs it up -- and how Walter must be sure that Aimee does not eat the truffle by giving her a treat for each truffle she finds.
Walter and his wife have a lovely repast set out for us near the small shop area -- red and white wine as well as olive tapenade, truffle pate, truffle butter and truffle oil with wonderful breads. -- all samples of what is sold in the shop. Phil, of course, purchases some wine and spreads -- as if we don't have enough food and drink on the ship.
Back on board -- I sleep for a good part of the afternoon. After dinner we take a walk into Tournon -- a lovely town. Phil and I walk across a pedestrian bridge built in 1825 -- to Tain-l'Hermitage another small town. Up in the hills we can see a statue of the Blessed Mother on one side of the river and a small church on the other side of the river --- all lit up.
We've had a good and busy day cruising the Rhone River.
Thanks for Reading.
Monday, April 15, 2013
Day Four - Avignon, France
Our guide, Martine, meets us at the ship at 9:00 am for an Avignon Walking Tour. We enter the walled city through one of the old gates. Avignon is a city more Medieval than Roman and currently has a population of 60,000.
The highlight of this tour is a visit to the Papal Palace, the seat of the Papacy from 1309 to 1377 and now a museum. This enormous Gothic building with walls 17-18 feet thick was built between 1335-1364 during the reign of four of the seven popes who lived in Avignon. Evident on the walls inside the palace are signatures or "marks" of the workman -- they marked the stones they hauled to get paid. As we walk through the winding streets of this charming city --- all of a sudden as a corner is turned a massive structure appears -- The Papal Palace.
We enter the palace visiting the Chapel with its original frescoes (the only areas we cannot photograph are where frescoes still exist). The next stop on the inside tour is the Kitchen on the third floor (no elevator) -- it has a sixty foot high chimney -- then to the Dining Room --a vast hall that could seat hundreds for up to a nine course meal of meats and fishes. The building is made of limestone -- heat was produced by fireplaces -- insulation was provided by the thick limestone walls as well as rugs and tapestries within the palace. We were told that people wore up to 40 pounds of clothing just to keep warm.
Moving on to the Pope's apartments -- there is the anti-chamber where guests would wait to meet with the Pope in his bedroom. The bedroom is relatively small but has a "throne-type" chair for the small audiences. It is a lovely room with a wood ceiling and frescoes on the wall. There is a set of stairs used by the popes as a short-cut to the chapel. It is reported that some popes kept birds in cages in this room. Next door is the Pope's study with the original wooden ceiling decorated with frescoes -- the Pope would spend his alone time in this room. The last room we visit is the "Hall of Justice of the Popes" where very large audiences and gatherings were held.
We have lots of time after the palace tour so decide to go to Mass at Basilique Saint Pierre at 11:15a -- all in French. During our walk to the Palace I had spotted a Brocante (flea market) in the Clock Tower Plaza -- so just before Mass I make a quick detour (by myself) to see what it was all about. It was quite large with everything you can imagine. I could have spent the afternoon -- but didn't. It appears that although all the shops are closed on Sundays -- there are makets such as this one everywhere.
Back on board -- we travel the Rhone passing through several locks -- it takes longer than expected so we are late arriving at Viviers -- where Rachel has scheduled a ghost walk after dinner. Since we will not arrive till about 10:30am -- Rachel suggests that all guests still game for the ghost tour wear white bathrobes from our cabins.
So we do -- Patte, Phil and I join the group led by Mylene -- dressed in medieval garb -- as she leads us down a long boulevard lined with large plane trees into Viviers. As we arrive in the middle of town -- all of a sudden an apparition dressed as a medieval man jumps out in front of the group. He introduces himself as the ghost of Noel Albert and says he is looking for his muse so he can paint. He picks Patte from the crowd and brings her over to sit on the edge of the fountain holding an apple and proceeds to paint with great drama -- he is funny and has a lot of flourish. Once the painting is finished he gives it to Patte -- it is an 8" x 10" white canvas with a black stick figure holding an apple. His signature takes up about one-third of the canvas.
We proceed through this town which is partially abandoned however investors have started to purchase properties to be renovated so about one-third of the buildings are inhabited. One does get the feeling of walking the streets during the Middle Ages. We visit several buildings and even go into one of the homes -- where we again encounter the ghost of Noel Albert.
This was a very busy day -- we returned to the ship about midnight.
Thanks for reading.
The highlight of this tour is a visit to the Papal Palace, the seat of the Papacy from 1309 to 1377 and now a museum. This enormous Gothic building with walls 17-18 feet thick was built between 1335-1364 during the reign of four of the seven popes who lived in Avignon. Evident on the walls inside the palace are signatures or "marks" of the workman -- they marked the stones they hauled to get paid. As we walk through the winding streets of this charming city --- all of a sudden as a corner is turned a massive structure appears -- The Papal Palace.
We enter the palace visiting the Chapel with its original frescoes (the only areas we cannot photograph are where frescoes still exist). The next stop on the inside tour is the Kitchen on the third floor (no elevator) -- it has a sixty foot high chimney -- then to the Dining Room --a vast hall that could seat hundreds for up to a nine course meal of meats and fishes. The building is made of limestone -- heat was produced by fireplaces -- insulation was provided by the thick limestone walls as well as rugs and tapestries within the palace. We were told that people wore up to 40 pounds of clothing just to keep warm.
Moving on to the Pope's apartments -- there is the anti-chamber where guests would wait to meet with the Pope in his bedroom. The bedroom is relatively small but has a "throne-type" chair for the small audiences. It is a lovely room with a wood ceiling and frescoes on the wall. There is a set of stairs used by the popes as a short-cut to the chapel. It is reported that some popes kept birds in cages in this room. Next door is the Pope's study with the original wooden ceiling decorated with frescoes -- the Pope would spend his alone time in this room. The last room we visit is the "Hall of Justice of the Popes" where very large audiences and gatherings were held.
We have lots of time after the palace tour so decide to go to Mass at Basilique Saint Pierre at 11:15a -- all in French. During our walk to the Palace I had spotted a Brocante (flea market) in the Clock Tower Plaza -- so just before Mass I make a quick detour (by myself) to see what it was all about. It was quite large with everything you can imagine. I could have spent the afternoon -- but didn't. It appears that although all the shops are closed on Sundays -- there are makets such as this one everywhere.
Back on board -- we travel the Rhone passing through several locks -- it takes longer than expected so we are late arriving at Viviers -- where Rachel has scheduled a ghost walk after dinner. Since we will not arrive till about 10:30am -- Rachel suggests that all guests still game for the ghost tour wear white bathrobes from our cabins.
So we do -- Patte, Phil and I join the group led by Mylene -- dressed in medieval garb -- as she leads us down a long boulevard lined with large plane trees into Viviers. As we arrive in the middle of town -- all of a sudden an apparition dressed as a medieval man jumps out in front of the group. He introduces himself as the ghost of Noel Albert and says he is looking for his muse so he can paint. He picks Patte from the crowd and brings her over to sit on the edge of the fountain holding an apple and proceeds to paint with great drama -- he is funny and has a lot of flourish. Once the painting is finished he gives it to Patte -- it is an 8" x 10" white canvas with a black stick figure holding an apple. His signature takes up about one-third of the canvas.
We proceed through this town which is partially abandoned however investors have started to purchase properties to be renovated so about one-third of the buildings are inhabited. One does get the feeling of walking the streets during the Middle Ages. We visit several buildings and even go into one of the homes -- where we again encounter the ghost of Noel Albert.
This was a very busy day -- we returned to the ship about midnight.
Thanks for reading.
Sunday, April 14, 2013
Day Three - Arles, France
We spent our first night onboard the AmaDagio -- after a hearty breakfast we have our first tour with Nadine, our Guide.
After a short bus ride through the countryside to Les Baux -- we stop at Carrieres de Lumieres and are treated to an extraordinary multi-media show set in a limestone quarry. On entry to the quarry it is dark but we have been told it is flat so there is no danger of tripping. All of a sudden the walls -- which must be 30, 40 or 50 feet high -- come alive with color and the music begins. For the next forty minutes we are mesmerized by a show from 16 painters who were influenced by their contact with the Mediterranean coast. Paintings from Monet, Renoir, Matisse, Vernet, Chagall, Bonnard and others are projected on all facades within this massive quarry. I hope my photos give you a sense of what we experienced -- like nothing I have ever seen before. This show runs from March 2013 until January 2014 and will then disappear forever.
Back on the bus we set off to the village of Saint-Remy and Saint-Paul Asylum where Vincent Van Gogh admitted himself in 1889 staying for about a year. The multiple reasons for his stay seem to include: his relationship with Paul Gaugin with whom he was living and not getting along, his heavy use of absinthe (which in 1888 had hallucinogenic properties), and he cut off part of his own left ear. During his time at Saint-Paul's he painted more than 150 canvases -- most of which are very well known such as The Irises and Starry Night. We walked the paths of the asylum seeing what Vincent saw -- we toured the building where he stayed seeing his bedroom and bath -- we experienced the peacefulness of this place and can only imagine how content he must have felt while painting here.
Next it is back to the ship for lunch, a quick rest and a walking tour of Arles at 3:00 pm with our guide, Joanne. We visited the Arles Roman Amphitheater (built circa 90 A.D. -- modeled after the Coliseum in Rome--holds 20,000 spectators) which is still in use for a variety of community activities. We visited the Antique Theatre (built late 1st Century B.C.--holds 10,000 spectators). Arles is a lovely town -- population about 55,000 but it is time to take our leave -- for a prompt 5:15 sailing.
Dinner is wonderful -- as usual -- and the service as well as the food is second to none.
Another great day -- but I must admit I'm exhausted.
Thanks for Reading --
After a short bus ride through the countryside to Les Baux -- we stop at Carrieres de Lumieres and are treated to an extraordinary multi-media show set in a limestone quarry. On entry to the quarry it is dark but we have been told it is flat so there is no danger of tripping. All of a sudden the walls -- which must be 30, 40 or 50 feet high -- come alive with color and the music begins. For the next forty minutes we are mesmerized by a show from 16 painters who were influenced by their contact with the Mediterranean coast. Paintings from Monet, Renoir, Matisse, Vernet, Chagall, Bonnard and others are projected on all facades within this massive quarry. I hope my photos give you a sense of what we experienced -- like nothing I have ever seen before. This show runs from March 2013 until January 2014 and will then disappear forever.
Back on the bus we set off to the village of Saint-Remy and Saint-Paul Asylum where Vincent Van Gogh admitted himself in 1889 staying for about a year. The multiple reasons for his stay seem to include: his relationship with Paul Gaugin with whom he was living and not getting along, his heavy use of absinthe (which in 1888 had hallucinogenic properties), and he cut off part of his own left ear. During his time at Saint-Paul's he painted more than 150 canvases -- most of which are very well known such as The Irises and Starry Night. We walked the paths of the asylum seeing what Vincent saw -- we toured the building where he stayed seeing his bedroom and bath -- we experienced the peacefulness of this place and can only imagine how content he must have felt while painting here.
Next it is back to the ship for lunch, a quick rest and a walking tour of Arles at 3:00 pm with our guide, Joanne. We visited the Arles Roman Amphitheater (built circa 90 A.D. -- modeled after the Coliseum in Rome--holds 20,000 spectators) which is still in use for a variety of community activities. We visited the Antique Theatre (built late 1st Century B.C.--holds 10,000 spectators). Arles is a lovely town -- population about 55,000 but it is time to take our leave -- for a prompt 5:15 sailing.
Dinner is wonderful -- as usual -- and the service as well as the food is second to none.
Another great day -- but I must admit I'm exhausted.
Thanks for Reading --
Friday, April 12, 2013
Day Two - Arles, France
Phil and I were up about 6:00 am -- he went to the lobby for coffee and I posted the blog. We had a very good breakfast in the the dining room --- Patte and Dave joined us. We all slept well and felt like were now on Europe time.
Another good day --- looking forward to tomorrow when I promise I will talk about Van Gogh after our visit to the asylum where he spent a year and painted some of his most famous pieces.
Thanks for reading.
Luckily our hotel is just across the street from the "Musee Departmental Arles Antique" which has a wonderful permanent collection going back to prehistoric times (2500 to 1800 B.C.). In addition there is currently an exhibit showcasing Auguste Rodin -- his own works of sculpture and paintings as well as his personal collection of ancient statuary which gave him pleasure and creative ideas. It was a thrill to see "The Thinker" in bronze on a small scale and on a massive scale in stone.
After spending the morning at the museum we checked out of the hotel -- took a cab to the ship, dropped our luggage and proceeded to explore an area of Arles which dates to Roman times.
It was such a glorious day that lunch in an outdoor cafe seemed like a must. We chose Le Pitchoune located in a square which shares space with several other establishments nearby. Patte and I had Croque Monsieur -- excellent, Phil had an Italien Salad - excellent, Dave had a Hamburger with pommes frites -- not so good. Dave specifically said medium well -- it came back raw and with an unexpected sauce on the top. I took his plate to the waitress to be cooked more -- she was most accommodating but clearly did not understand what I meant until I said "no red" and pointed to the middle of the burger --- it came back well done -- perfect. We have learned that the French eat their meat very rare and do not understand why anyone would do otherwise. Dave says he's switching to chicken and fish for the duration of the trip.
After lunch we strolled around streets holding the ancient buildings and more recent shops of Arles. We will have a guided walking tour of Arles tomorrow. I love the colorful tablecloths from this area -- everything is so vibrant -- I just may have to bring one home with me.
We arrived back at the ship about 3:30 pm -- our luggage was in our rooms. We proceeded to get settled, take a tour of the ship and relax for a bit on the Sun Deck before the 6:30 pm welcome and safety reception complete with champagne. This really is the only way to travel.
Dinner was served at 7:30pm -- it was excellent -- service, food and the local wine. After dinner we were entertained by two guitarists and a Flamenco dancer -- they were quite good and so excited to be on board.
We learned tonight that the ship will not be traveling on the river overnight which means that after dinner we can walk around whatever town we are in --- or even have dinner on land if we want to try some of the local fare.
Another good day --- looking forward to tomorrow when I promise I will talk about Van Gogh after our visit to the asylum where he spent a year and painted some of his most famous pieces.
Thanks for reading.
Thursday, April 11, 2013
Day One -- Arles, France
Heading toward the second leg of our journey in the Philadelphia Airport -- Patte spotted our friend, Spence Robbins traveling in the other direction -- what a coincidence and a good omen. Spence is on the blog list so he knew we were on the road.
Finally after 3 flights and 1 train ride we arrived exhausted in Arles, France about 12:45 pm. Our hotel is a Mecure (European chain with varying degrees of luxury) -- in our case think Motel 6. It is clean, has a restaurant on site and we can walk to town which we do as soon as we've checked in.
Where to have lunch -- Anais at the hotel recommended a couple of places but then we spot the Irish Pub "Paddy Mullins". This appeared to be just we needed -- comfort food we could understand. This place was an Irish Pub in name and decor only. The meal filled the void and allowed us to move on to our ultimate goal of going to sleep later.
Time to explore this town of Arles -- the weather has turned cold and windy but we soldier on. Arles is a lovely town with Roman roots ---- the architecture is eclectic making it a joy to travel the medieval streets opening on to plazas of large and small.
After a rest we have a nice dinner in the hotel and turn in about 8:30 pm. We've had a good first day.
Tomorrow we board our riverboat and continue to explore Arles. Stay tuned to see what really happened to Vincent Van Gogh when he lived in this area.
Finally after 3 flights and 1 train ride we arrived exhausted in Arles, France about 12:45 pm. Our hotel is a Mecure (European chain with varying degrees of luxury) -- in our case think Motel 6. It is clean, has a restaurant on site and we can walk to town which we do as soon as we've checked in.
Where to have lunch -- Anais at the hotel recommended a couple of places but then we spot the Irish Pub "Paddy Mullins". This appeared to be just we needed -- comfort food we could understand. This place was an Irish Pub in name and decor only. The meal filled the void and allowed us to move on to our ultimate goal of going to sleep later.
Time to explore this town of Arles -- the weather has turned cold and windy but we soldier on. Arles is a lovely town with Roman roots ---- the architecture is eclectic making it a joy to travel the medieval streets opening on to plazas of large and small.
After a rest we have a nice dinner in the hotel and turn in about 8:30 pm. We've had a good first day.
Tomorrow we board our riverboat and continue to explore Arles. Stay tuned to see what really happened to Vincent Van Gogh when he lived in this area.
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