Day Seventeen - Paris

We were all up early -- purchased our metro day passes and had coffee at a cafe near our hotel before going our separate ways.  Patte and Dave to Musee' D'Orsay (art museum), Phil to Musee' Invalides (military museum) and me to my hairdresser, Jamal.

I exited the Metro at Concorde and walked up the Champs-Elysee -- wonderful walk which brought me to Jamal's salon just before 10:00 am.   Jamal had Catherine wash my hair while he finished up with another customer.   When I sat in the chair he said, "So what do you want?".  I said I wanted something easy to care for but not too short.  Jamal, who holds citizenship in Lebanon and France, has been in Paris for 36 years.  He cut and snipped and waved his hands using two different scissors at the same time -- he also used two blow dryers simultaneously.   Voila -- I had a haircut that I loved! 

Since I had a couple hours before meeting my group --- I walked around the neighborhood and found a street market where I purchased herbed sea salt (don't know why), herb snipping scissors and of course a decadent pastry.   I next found the Cafe le Grand Corona at the base of Avenue George V.   I sipped my expresso and wrote about my day as I watched the goings on outside the window -- including the making of a movie or a commercial.   I felt very French.

After meeting Patte, Dave and Phil at the "Flame of Freedom" at 1:00 pm ---- we had lunch back at my cafe.   Dave is still having difficulty explaining to the French that he wants no dressing on his salad.   He ordered no dressing -- it came with dressing -- he sent it back with explicit instructions -- it came back looking exactly the same.  C'est la Vie!

After lunch -- Phil went off to take a picture of himself with the Eiffel Tower in the background for some folks at Pete's Bar in Neptune Beach. Patte, Dave and I walked along the Seine towards Notre Dame where we were going to meet Phil and go to 5:45 Mass.   It was a great walk through the Tuileries Gardens and by the bookstalls along the river -- also a bridge which was loaded with various padlocks --- very interesting.   We arrived about 5:00 pm to a very busy area outside this incredible gothic cathedral -- there was a line to get in but it moved along and we found Phil sitting in the back of the church.

After Mass -- we went on a hunt for a good dinner place.  We settled on "Navigator" in the Latin Quarter on a side street --- it looked local.  It was local -- nobody spoke English.  After some difficulty in the beginning we forged ahead -- ordered our meals with some trepidation but were all very pleased -- even Dave.

As we were walking towards the Metro we happened upon Shakespeare and Company -- a bookshop which has been in Paris since the 1920's.   Originally opened by Sylvia Beach, an American expatriate,  it was a gathering place for the literary folks of that period.  It was fun to see and browse around -- a nice finish to our day.   

We took the Metro to our hotel ending a wonderful last day in the City of Light.

Thanks for Reading!

Day Sixteen - Paris

Today is disembarkation day on the AmaLegro -- breakfast at 7am -- 8:30am taxi to the Pullman Montparnasse -- our well-located hotel.   Neither of our rooms are ready -- however Patte and Dave's desk clerk upgrades them to a very large two-room suite -- three times the size of the riverboat cabin.   We all go to the suite -- Patte and Dave to settle in and Phil and I to store our luggage.

By 9:45 am we are walking through Paris to the Musee D'Orsay with a stop at Les Invalides -- the military museum where Napoleon Bonaparte is buried.   Approaching the entrance to the Musee' D'Orsay we are stunned to see the long line.  As we discuss our options a large group of teenage students (at least 100) appear and move toward the end of the line.   At that moment the decision is made -- we are off to la Basilique du Sacre' Coeur de Montmartre -- the museum will have to wait.  

Montmartre requires a ride on the Paris Metro.  We are lucky enough to encounter an agent who speaks perfect English.  When I inquire "Parlez vous Anglais?" she responds "Only when I'm drunk".  She educates us about the metro giving explicit directions to Montmartre and how to find the funicular which will take us to Sacre' Coeur.  The metro is well traveled -- at one stop a young man with a saxophone steps onto the train and starts to play his instrument.  He is wonderful and was on the train for 3-4 stops -- just before exiting he passed a cup for donations -- we were happy to throw a Euro in -- I bet he picked up 10-15 Euros in 7 minutes -- not a bad gig.

We exit the Metro into Montmartre which means "mount of martyrs"  -- St. Denis, the first bishop of Paris, was martyred here in the late 3rd Century.  Montmartre today is a vibrant section of Paris -- a real neighborhood with lots of shops and restaurants.  Our metro day passes are good on the finicular which takes us up a very steep hill to Sacre' Coeur -- built in the 1870's.   This Basilica is magnificent -- it can be seen from all over Paris and the view from its perch,  even on this cloudy day, is something to see.

Before we know it -- it is time for lunch.   We have many choices but settle on Brasserie le St. Jean -- a good choice for all.  I have been on a Croque Monsieur kick -- basically grilled cheese but it tastes so much better in France.

This afternoon Patte and Dave want to see the Arc de Triomphe so Phil and I go along since we are on a search for the hair salon where I had my haircut in 1993 -- it is in the same area.   We emerge from the Metro right at the Arc.   According to the Concierge at our hotel -- the salon name no longer exists so we are going to the address and "Voila" we find a salon with the name "Jamal Fakih" on it.   Luckily Jamal speaks English as I explain that I would like to have my haircut -- I leave with an appointment for tomorrow at 10:00am.    

As Phil and I walk back to the hotel I spot a monument which looks like a gold tooth.  As we get closer I realize it is a flame.   We have come across the Liberty Flame, a replica of the flame from our Statue of Liberty -- given to France in 1989 by the International Herald Tribune commemorating 100 years of publishing an English language daily newspaper in Paris.  This monument became an unofficial memorial for Princess Diana after her 1997 death in the tunnel beneath.

The weather is turning much cooler as we continue walking so I suggest we get on the Metro -- which we do.  However -- we do more walking underground than if we had just stayed the course above.  At the hotel our room is ready -- very nice but cannot compare to the Henry's suite -- where we will have some wine before going to dinner.

A cafe close by and recommended by the Concierge is our dinner choice.  We are convinced it is owned by his brother-in-law since it is full of Americans and very expensive with mediocre food.

What a wonderful day in Paris --- life is good.

Thanks for Reading!

Day Fifteen - Le Pecq and Paris

This is one of those days when a decision must be made on which tour to take.  Our choices are:  1-Auvers-Sur-Oise -- the town where Vincent Van Gogh lived -- and died by a self-inflicted gunshot wound in 1890,  and 2-MalMaison -- the home of Josephine and Napoleon Bonaparte.   Patte and Dave go to Auvers-Sur-Oise and Phil and I opt for MalMaison.

Napoleon and Josephine married in 1796 -- her second marriage and his first -- which caused anger and disbelief in the Bonaparte family since their consent had not been given.  MalMaison was purchased by Josephine in 1797 while her husband was away fighting the Egyptian Campaign.  The house cost a fortune and so did the extensive renovations undertaken by Josephine.   It is interesting to note that once Napoleon became  Emperor -- he put into effect a law which eliminated the ability of a wife to purchase property without her husband's consent.  

Josephine worked hard to make MalMaison an estate with the most unusual garden in Europe.  She imported plants and animals from all over the world to further this endeavor.  Napoleon and Josephine divorced in 1810 -- she had been unable to produce an heir perhaps due to her age --  she was six years his senior.   Josephine was granted ownership of MalMaison and lived there until she died in 1814 from a cold.  Napoleon took up residence in the house after his defeat at Waterloo (1815) and before his exile to the island of Saint Helena.

MalMaison -- a beautiful 20 room mansion --  was completely restored in the early 20th Century by Pierre Humbert -- a French architect.  Phil and I enjoyed learning how this couple, who were so self-absorbed with themselves and their possessions,  lived at the turn of the nineteenth century.

Back on board AmaLegro for a 1:00 pm lunch and an afternoon cruising the Seine to Paris.

Now it is time to tell you about Reggie's Girls.  We met Doris, Betty, Ruth and Elizabeth on the AmaDagio cruising the Rhone.  They are from Canada -- Ottaway except Doris who is from Calgary.  I think it was Betty who approached Dave one day saying that he was the spitting image of "Reggie" a character (played by Tom Courtenay) in the recent movie "Quartet" -- which they had just seen on the plane coming over to France.  We had a lot of fun with these ladies kibitzing back and forth.   So I approached the group one day at lunch asking if they'd agree to have a photo on the blog.   Without hesitation Betty said, "Only if 'Reggie' is in the photo."   Of course "Reggie" was delighted to be in the photo.   We're not sure yet what all this attention is doing to Dave aka "Reggie" -- we're hopeful that it doesn't go to his head.

We end this day and this cruise on the Sun Deck for an after dinner spin along the Seine  watching the Eiffel Tower's daily "light show" -- sharing some libation with "Reggie's Girls".  

Thanks for Reading.


 

Day Fourteen - Les Andeleys and Le Pecq

The AmaLegro is docked in Le Petit Andeley -- the section of town which was founded when Richard the Lion Heart built his fortress, Chateau Gaillard in 1197.  Our guide this morning is Ginnie -- she is dressed in an adorable outfit that speaks "French Countryside".  Chateau Gailliard is visible from the AmaLegro but a bus is needed to get us to the top of the hill.  Ginnie tours us all around the outside area before we enter the inner castle which is in the process of being restored.

King Richard I of England and feudal Duke of Normandy built the fortress in 18 months using 6,000 workers. The Chateau is 300 feet high with views of the comings and goings along the Seine and on land from every direction.  Unfortunately Richard was wounded by a crossbow bolt shot in his shoulder during an attack on the Castle of Chalus near Limoges -- he died 13 days later on April 6, 1199.    Chateau Gaillard was eventually taken by King Philip Augustus of France in 1202 and by 1204 Normandy was made part of the Kingdom of France.  Richard's Chateau played a major defensive role in the Hundred Years War passing from one side to the other several times.  It was demolished at the end of the 16th century by Henri IV --- monks living nearby were allowed to take the stones to repair their abbeys.   The ruins are a wonderful example of this period of time.

Ginnie next leads us on a walk down the hill to the town of Petit Les Andeleys to tour the Church and explore the town.  Our ship is docked just outside town.

Lunch on board at 12:30 and by 1:30 we are on our way to Le Pecq -- just outside Paris.

Tonight is the Captains Farewell Cocktail Party -- where all the members of the crew are paraded through the lounge -- followed by dinner. 

By 11:00 pm we have arrived in Le Pecq.

Another good day on the Seine.

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Day Thirteen - Rouen and Les Andeleys

Phil and I decide not to go on any tours today -- we need a break.  He takes several walks around Rouen -- after working on the blog I join him for about an hour.  We visit a street market and just enjoy the city which is lovely.  

I think this might be an opportunity to give my readers some information about the river boats we have been living on for almost two weeks -- AmaDagio and AmaLegro.  These ships are almost identical -- in fact we have the same room numbers on both.

Our cabin is small but sufficient -- it has a TV which doubles as a computer -- wifi is complimentary.  We have a french balcony -- meaning large sliding doors with bars but no actual balcony.   

The Main Lounge at the bow is the gathering place with a combination of soft seating and tables with chairs.  It is large enough to seat all guests (max of 150).  There is a 24/7 beverage station for coffee,  tea, water --  fruit and fabulous cookies.  A light lunch is served in the lounge -- buffet style.   At one end there is also a bar if guests would like to purchase alcoholic drinks.

The Back Lounge is small and quiet -- very nice and close to our rooms.   In this same area is a small Fitness Room with a treadmill, some exercise equipment and a sauna.   Frequently Dave uses the treadmill and Phil uses the Sauna

The Dining Room is on the lower level -- it seats all guests.  Breakfast, lunch and dinner are served in an open seating atmosphere.  The four of us gravitate to the same table -- we like our servers.  Meals are good  -- especially the vegetarian selection.  Wine and beer with dinner and lunch are complimentary.  Actually I think champagne is available at breakfast.  At lunch and dinner there is a cheese table which is full of local selections.   Nobody is going hungry on this ship.

The Sun Deck on the very top of the ship is a pleasant spot on a nice evening to enjoy the lights of the city wherever we are docked. There is also a putting green on the Sun Deck. 

Our tours are very good -- the only problem might be which to choose when there is more than one.  We have had guides with good English and extensive knowledge about the areas we visit.

Traveling by riverboat is a wonderful way to visit lots of sites without the hassle of figuring out meals and moving every day or two.    

By our 1:30 lunch all guests are on board as we depart for Les Andeleys --- 

At 6:15 there is a cocktail party for guests who have previously sailed with AMA Waterways.

After dinner -- Patte, Phil and I take a walk around Petit Les Andeleys -- a lovely small town.  There is a narrow road along the river -- and of course in town there is a very large church.

Thanks for Reading!

Day Twelve -- Rouen and the Normandie Beaches

This is a very long day -- we are on a bus at 8:15 am to visit first the American Museum in Arromanches, then the American Cemetery at Omaha Beach and lastly La Pointe Du Hoc where American Rangers landed on D-Day. Our guide, Olivier, gives a running narrative of the German occupation of France and how Rouen was destroyed by fires brought on by the arrival of German tanks. Olivier explained that Rouen was liberated late (Aug 25th) since the Allied Troops had difficulty getting to Normandy with no bridge across the Seine.

In Arromanches the American Museum is small and very crowded -- but there are some interesting exhibits. The outside area is more intriguing since it is here that the Allies built a harbor to use as a base of operations --  some of the stone stanchions used for ramps, etc. are still in evidence.

We have been given 20 Euros each by the ship for our lunch. Phil and I find "Brasserie du 6 juin" -- Patte and Dave join us. When we see all the guides in the restaurant we know we have chosen well.

On June 6, 1944 between 6:30 am and 7:30 am 135,000 men and 20,000 vehicles went ashore at five beaches (all with code names) on the Normandy coast.   The Americans landed at Omaha and Utah,  the British landed at Gold, the Canadians landed at Juno and the British and French landed at Sword.  These landings were only the beginning --- the Battle of Normandy lasted three months -- much longer than the Allies expected.  We stopped at Omaha where the American Cemetery is located. Omaha lost 3,000 young men and Utah lost 920 young men that day.

Olivier leads us to the top of Omaha Beach explaining more about the landings and the dangers faced by everyone involved.  It is up to us if we want to walk down to the beach -- we do.   It is really something to stand on Omaha Beach -- look up the cliff as those men did -- and know how many of them lost their lives on the very spot where we stand.

After a tough climb back up the hill we walk over to the Cemetery -- all the headstones are white with Crosses for the Christians and Star of David for the Jewish casualties. Walking through the cemetery to the chapel in the very center of the graves I think how beautiful it is.

There is also a memorial with a sculpture depicting youth since most of the casualties were so young. On either side of the sculpture are maps of the battles that were fought.

After spending an hour and a half at Omaha we are off to La Pointe Du Hoc which was a strategic position in the German fortifications along the coast of Normandy. The task of taking this location fell to the American Rangers. They had to scale the cliff under enemy fire before the battle had begun. The fighting here on June 6th and 7th cost the lives of 135 Rangers.

La Pointe Du Hoc has been left just as it was in 1944.  The bomb craters are there --- the German bunkers are there --- and the destroyed bunkers are as they were.   The cliff scaled by the Rangers is as it was -- except there is a platform so visitors can more easily look down to the water.  

All of these sites are truly amazing and certainly gives one pause --- the bus ride home was very quiet.

We arrive back to the AmaLegro at 6:30 -- dinner at 7:30 -- "Name that Tune" after dinner --- we are terrible getting only half right.

Thanks for Reading!

Day Eleven - Vernon - Rouen

By 7:30 am we are enroute to Rouen --- at 10:30 am -- a presentation on France and its people by Eliana, our Cruise Manager.

On arrival in Rouen -- it is a walking tour with Marie Helen where our first stop is the cathedral of Notre Dame built in 1120 -- ceilings are 97 feet high. Although we have seen more churches than I can remember in Europe -- this one is impressive. Claude Monet felt the same way as he immortalized this cathedral in his paintings.

We continue through the city passing a yellow timber house dating to 1466 and the 16th century Clock Tower which still tells accurate time -- at least on one side.

I was stunned as we entered Place du Vieux Marche' (Old Market Square) where Ste. Jeanne-D'Arc was burned at the stake. The church built in her honor in 1979 is extremely contemporary --the shape looks like a dragon. Marie Helen explained that even though this church is a modern design, the stained glass windows date to circa 1530. Originally the windows were in St. Vincent's Church in Rouen which was destroyed in the World War II bombings. In the early 1940's people in Rouen had the forethought to remove the stained glass windows from their churches before the bombings began. Since St. Vincent's was completely destroyed there was no place to return these beautiful windows so - as the church was being built for their beloved St. Joan someone remembered the windows proposing a new home. Each of these windows tells a story since many people in the 16th century could not read. Some things just work out for the best --- this is one of them.

A stop at the Euro Cafe for some people watching before going back to the ship is our last stop in Rouen.

The evening entertainment was very enjoyable pianist who specialized in show tunes -- it was a lot of fun -- the perfect ending to a good day on the Seine.

Thanks for Reading.